LetsJapan

Autumn in Japan ・日本の秋 — through the years.

A few years ago I posted an extensive, personal Autumn in Japan photo essay, updated here and there. Instead of updating that piece again, I’m just sharing a few newly-found, but certainly not “new,” autumn photos taken over the years (from 1984 and 2003). I’ve taken more recent ones, in more recent autumns in Japan, but I thought these would suffice for this year. I may update if or when I run across more share-worthy photos.

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Kinkaku-ji, the Temple of the Golden Pavilion. Kyoto. 1984

Tea Break During Rice Harvest. Tsuda. 1984.

On Jingu no michi, looking towards the Higashiyama. Kyoto. 2003.

Along Tetsugaku no Michi (“Philosopher’s Path”). Kyoto. 2003.

For much more on, and more photos from, Philosopher’s Path, click here.

Evening “light up” at Eikan-do Temple. Kyoto. 2003.

Eikan-do (see photo immediately above) is one of my favorite temples in Kyoto. I highly recommend checking out Eikan-do’s website. In May 2008 one of the head priests granted a group I was guiding an hour-long audience to discuss Eikan-do and some of the basic tenets of Buddhist theology and philosophy. Disclosure: I had a hand in editing one of Eikan-do’s web pages.

. . .

One, more recent, additional photo:

Facing North on Kawabata Street, Kyoto. November 2009.

2012: 09/18
CATEGORY: Uncategorized
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Japan, China, the Senkaku Islands, & Ginned-up Rage.

Several of the Senkaku ・Diaoyu Islands

= 19 Sept 2012 Update: as quickly as they began, China’s raging protests end. Beijing pulls the levers on both . . . =

= 25 Sept 2012 Update: Now Taiwan, feeling ignored it seems, has gotten into the act. See photo below . . . =

So what’s going on between China and Japan and the Senkaku (Diaoyu to the Chinese) Islands? Where are these islands and what’s behind all the rage and sabre-rattling? This is no scholarly report, just a little update and primer for the casual reader who wants some background on this stormy (and potentially very dangerous) controversy. While looking at the information below, please keep the following things in mind: 1) Virtually no protests — certainly not in front of foreign embassies — occur in China without government approval and, in matters such as this, organization; 2) China’s going through a Communist Party / National Government transfer-of-power drama which, if the populace were to pay a whole lot of attention to it, would no doubt showcase cronyism and ineptitude; 3) Japan has elections coming up, too, and no Japanese politician wants to be seen as “bowing” to Chinese demands.

From the Wiki:

The Senkaku Islands dispute concerns a territorial dispute on a group of uninhabited, the Senkaku Islands, which are also known as the Diaoyu by China or Tiaoyutai Islands by Taiwan. The archipelago is administered by Japan, while also being claimed by both the People’s Republic of China (PRC) and the Republic of China [Taiwan] (ROC). [Following World War II] The United States occupied the islands from 1945 to 1972. . .

After China lost the [first Sino-Japanese] war [in 1895], both countries signed the Treaty of Shimonoseki in April 1895 that stipulated, among other things, that China would cede to Japan “the island of Formosa together with all islands appertaining or belonging to said island of Formosa (Taiwan)”.

The treaty, however, was nullified after Japan lost the Second World War in 1945 by the Treaty of San Francisco, which was signed between Japan and part of the Allied Powers in 1951. The document nullifies prior treaties and lays down the framework for Japan’s current status of retaining a military that is purely defensive in nature.

There is a disagreement between the Japanese, PRC and ROC governments as to whether the islands are implied to be part of the “islands appertaining or belonging to said island of Formosa” in the Treaty of Shimonoseki.

Map of the Disputed Islands.

* Thousands of Chinese Protesters Besiege Japanese Embassy (Japan Today — September 15, 2012). Excerpt:

“Return our islands! Japanese devils get out!” some shouted. One of them held up a sign reading: “For the respect of the motherland, we must go to war with Japan.”

Protester Liu Gang, a migrant worker from the southern region of Guangxi, said: “We hate Japan. We’ve always hated Japan. Japan invaded China and killed a lot of Chinese. We will never forget.”

* Japan and China: Ghosts of the Past (The Guardian — September 17, 2012). Excerpt:

Left to their own devices, relations between Japan and China are bound to improve. Both economies need each other. China is Japan’s single largest trading partner and bilateral trade hit a record $345bn last year. But things in the East China Sea are rarely left to their own devices. A move by the Japanese government to defuse an attempt by nationalists to buy disputed islands in fish- and gas-rich seas, by buying them itself, has led to six days of demonstrations in China. Japanese cars and car dealerships have been attacked, factories have been torched or broken into. Hundreds of Japanese companies and offices have been forced to suspend operation. And the biggest wave of protest since the two countries normalised relations in 1972 – there were demonstrations in 70 Chinese cities – is not over yet.

SEPTEMBER 25, 2012:

AP/Taiwan Central News Agency Photo [25 September 2012] — Japanese Coast Guard boats shoot water cannons at Taiwanese Coast Guard boats in the waters off the disputed islands. About 40 Taiwanese fishing vessels and 12 Taiwanese Coast Guard boats took part in the action, finally pulling away after the water cannonade.

2012: 09/18
CATEGORY: Uncategorized
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North Korea: It’s Starting… A news round-up

Joyful North Korean Soldiers dance in April 2012 for now-ousted General Ri Yong Ho.

I’ve been watching the news coming out of North Korea rather closely since the last dictator, Kim Jong Il died last December. Over the past week or so things seem to be moving (by North Korean standards) at light speed. Here are recent headlines (with the kicker at the end):

+ July 13, 2012: Who is North Korean Leader Kim Jong Un’s “Mystery Woman?”

+ July 15, 2012: Is Kim Jong Un Opening Up North Korea?

+ July 16, 2012: Top North Korean General Loses Job.

+ July 20, 2012: Kim Plans Economic Reform in North Korea.

. . . and, in late-breaking news: Kim [Jon Il's] Ex-Sushi Chef — “Kenji Fujimoto” — Invited Back to North Korea ( ! ).

My guess: 1. Jong Un went to school in Switzerland and didn’t want to look like a dork dictator in front of all his old classmates. 2. He’s got a hot, pop-singer girlfriend who’s just dying to make it big in South Korea and the West. 3. He wants to crawl out from under his dad’s and grandpop’s shadow. 4. He sees how the West turned on a dime with Myanmar/Burma once it began reforms. 5. Certain People in China told him it would be in his own best interest. Some combination of all that.

In 2005 I was in North Eastern China, not too awfully far from its boarder with North Korea. Various adventures were had. My last night staying in that part of China, though, I spoke with a local government official with some degree of frankness about the mood in China about North Korea. This tale tells something of those several days in Anshan, China, with the payoff at the end, in re: a “Practical North Korea.”

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2012: 07/20
CATEGORY: Uncategorized
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Philosopher’s Path, Kyoto ・京都の哲学の道.

Philosopher’s Path – (Tetsugaku no Michi ・哲学の道), Kyoto.

It’s a walking path, a pedestrian trail, that runs about along a small canal (part of the Lake Biwa Aqueduct system) at the base of Kyoto’s East Mountain (Higashiyama ・東山).

Looking south along Philosopher’s Path. Autumn 2003.

Professor Kitaro Nishida (1870-1945) taught philosophy at Kyoto University from 1910 until 1928. He famously strolled this Higashiyama canal path during his daily commute to the university and as he meditated reconciling Japanese and Western religious and philosophical tenants. His most famous, and original, work was An Inquiry into the Good.*

Philosopher’s Path. Autumn 2003.

I enjoy all seasons, but autumn’s my favorite. That said, with so many cherry trees lining Philosopher’s Path springtime and cherry blossom-viewing is perhaps most other people’s favorite time to walk the Path. On some summer nights you can find yourself in virtual clouds of fireflies (hotaru・ホタル). I haven’t walked Philosopher’s Path in the snow, yet, but can imagine the sublime beauty (and having it mostly to myself).

Philosopher’s Path on a warm May day, 2010.

Also along the path (especially as you get closer to Ginkaku-ji, the Silver Pavilion), you’ll find more than a few tea houses, coffee shops, souvenir shops, small boutiques and galleries. On the southern end (right-hand side as you’re facing the eastern mountain) there’s Eikan-do temple, a beautiful place. Philosopher’s Path also runs through some of Kyoto’s most expensive properties. The photo below shows a garden entrance to one of the Houses of the Wealthy. The view, though, is free . . .

Home. Along Philosopher’s Path. May 2010.

Map of Philosopher’s Path (and views of / links to nearby sites)

Just below this map click on “View Larger Map” and you’ll see it all much more clearly. As you walk, this takes you from the east end of Marutamachi Street (丸田町道), across Shirakawa Street (白川道), up to Philosopher’s Path. Note the other nearby sites, and some photos (click on the icon) to help you get your bearings:

View Larger Map

. . .

Coming next: Ginkaku-ji (銀閣寺), a/k/a “The Silver Pavilion” (that’s not really silver):

The “Silver” Pavilion. May 2010.

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* Excerpt from an Amazon.com review of An Inquiry into the Good:

“Nishida’s approach to metaphysics, however, is unique. Nishida was personally influenced profoundly by zen. Zen is often suspicious of abstract, rational conceptions of reality and instead favors a method of “direct seeing” in approaching reality. This is in direct contrast to the Western method of approach to questions about the nature of reality which rely primarily on logic and rational argument in attempting to determine or uncover the nature of reality. Nishitani Keiji summarizes these different approaches well in his book on Nishida. Nishitani writes, ‘The sense of quest…as it appears in Plato’s dialogues entails a spirit of inquiry aimed at the gradual discovery through dialogue of something new, something not yet known to the participants. This spirit appears as the standpoint of pure reason that seeks to uncover something new and completely unknown, to discover according to the laws of logic.’”

2012: 06/22
CATEGORY: Uncategorized
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Kyoto’s Heian Shrine (平安神宮)

Heian Jingu Main Hall. May 2010.

Heian Jingu (平安神宮) is a “new” Kyoto Shinto Shrine, founded and constructed in 1884 to commemorate the 1,100th anniversary of the founding of Kyoto (then, “Heiankyo”) by Emperor Kammu and Emperor Komei, father of the Emperor Meiji who was reigning in the late-1880s (Note: Emperor Meiji reigned from 1868-1912).　Heian Jingu’s designation as a Jingu, and not a Jinja (a “regular” Shinto Shrine), denotes that it is associated with the Imperial Family.

Heian Jingu on a chilly day. March 1991.

Omikuji (fortunes) at Heian Jingu. 2003.

Every June a National Noh Theater Performs at Heian Jingu. June 2003.

Pine at Heian Jingu. 2008.

Bride (left) and her mom on their way wedding at Heian Shrine (directly behind), with the Great Gate (大鳥居) in the background.

Faux Sake Casks (kazaridaru). Hiean Jingu front, for blessing’s sake. 2008.

Evening at the Great Torii, Heian Jingu Mae Street. 2009.

The Garden

Heian Jingu is famously known for its large garden. While entrance to the main shrine area is free (see photos above), enjoying the walking behind the building complex will cost you a ¥600 entrance fee and it’s open from 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. The garden was laid-out by the renowned designer Ogawa Jihei (who designed several of Kyoto’s famous, modern-era gardens) and meant for leisurely, contemplative strolling. Here are several photos I’ve taken of The Garden from over the years . . .

Heian Jingu’s Garden. October 2001.

Ogawa used shakkei, “borrowed scenery,” in Heian Jingu’s garden. 1990.

Yes, that’s a model. Her real photographer stands just to my right. 2001.

Lilies in a cove of the central koi pond. 2001.

Sign at the stepping stone bridge. 2001.

A ticket stub I saved for Heian Jingu’s garden.

Heian Jingu is located in Kyoto’s Higashiyama (Eastern Mountain) area with Reisen Dori (street) running directly in front of it, Marutamachi Dori running along the block behind it, and Okazaki Dori up along side it on its eastern side. Right where Okazaki Dori intersects Marutamachi Dori at Heian Jingu’s back, northeastern side, you’ll find the Three Sisters Inn Annex, where I’ve stayed countless times and which itself is just a few minutes walk to Kurodani Dera (Temple), Okariba (restaurant) and Hanafusa Coffee Shop.

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Coming up next: Philosopher’s Path (Tetsugaku on Michi) -

Along “Philosopher’s Path” (哲学の道), Kyoto. 2003.

2012: 06/12
CATEGORY: Uncategorized
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Kyoto’s Kiyomizu-dera (清水寺)

Note on Photos: I took all the photos and snapshots below, on multiple trips to Kiyomizu-dera*. They go back as far as 20 years. Different seasons, different times of day, snapped with various cameras (from a Pentax K-1000 to a Motorola Android phone, and several others). Note how the light, composition, resolution and “feel” varies from photo to photo.

Kiyomizu-dera. Main Hall looking south. May 2010.

We have a history.

As with so many other places in Kyoto, I first visited Kiyomizu-dera in the fall of 1984, when I was an exchange student at nearby Kansai Gaidai (University). Yet the earliest photos I can find are from 1990, when I got back to Japan to teach in a rural middle school in Hyogo Prefecture, a couple hours away from Kyoto. Before getting sent to our various school assignments, though, a pack of us Hyogo Prefecture “JET Program” teachers took at day trip into Kyoto from Kobe and I’ve managed to find a couple photos from that trip. Since then I’ve returned many times with various people and groups. Though I now “guide” people to Kiyomizu-dera, it never fails to amaze me. Many memories are wound-up with it, too. . .

Kiyomizu-dera Entrance, Niomon Guardian Gate (仁王門) in foreground. 2010.

Better late than never

I need to write more on Kyoto’s better-known sights. Ryoan-ji temple, with its famous rock garden, is the only one I’ve so far written about. I’ve photo-essayed on lesser-known (to the Westerner) shrines, temples, art and antique streets, Kyoto’s most famous flea market, the main train station, and coffee shops and restaurants. But not so much the “Centerpiece Destinations.” This is no definitive history or even textbook summary on Kiyomizu-dera. Instead, I’ll just provide some general, solid information, good links, and photos that I hope will make those who’ve not yet traveled to Kyoto want to go. If you’ve already been, I hope this will help bring back some memories.

Kiyomizu-dera (清水寺) Buddhist Temple

One of the more popular places from which to photograph Kiyomizu-dera. October 1999.

Kiyomizu-dera means “Pure Water Temple.” Pre-dating the establishment of Kyoto by 16 years, Kiyomizu-dera was founded in 778 C.E. by the Buddhist priest Echin. The complex hugs and is built into the side of Mount Otowa, which itself is part of Kyoto’s long, continuous East-side Mountains (Higashiyama). The present layout and complex was rebuilt in 1633 under the patronage of the third Tokugawa shogun, Iemitsu. In 1994 Kiyomizu-dera was placed on UNESCO‘s registry of World Heritage Sites. It’s also on Japan’s National Treasure list.

Jumping Off Kiyomizu’s Stage

One of Kiyomizu-dera’s main distinguishing features is its famous stage, or veranda, which juts out from the Main Hall over a ravine, affording visitors a great view of the mountain just across the ravine, southern Kyoto off to one’s right (see and click on photo below) and of other visitors almost 50 feet down below at the “Otowa no Taki” waterfall (see explanation and photos below). The veranda’s held up by 139 massive keyaki (Japanese zelkova) pillars and more than 400 cypress cross-beams. . . without using a single nail. It also spawned a Japanese saying or “kotowaza” — “Leap off Kiyomizu’s stage” 清水の舞台から飛び降りる (きよみずのぶたいからとびおりる). This translates into English as “Go for it,” or “Take the plunge.”

Looking directly west, past the southern side of the Pagoda. 2010.

Looking towards the famous “stage,” veranda. 2010.

CLICK on this one. View of Kyoto from the Stage/Veranda. 2010.

In front, looking towards Niomon. 2007.

Saimon, “West Gate,” with 3-tiered pagoda behind. 2010.

Jishu-jinja (Shinto Shrine)

Incorporated, but technically separate from, Kiyomizu-dera is Jishu-jina (“Jinja” meaning Shinto Shrine), which is dedicated to the Shinto deity of love and “good matches,” Okuninushi no Mikoto (his companion’s a rabbit). Two stones, each set firmly in the ground near the shrine, are spaced about 30 feet (10 meters) apart. If one can successfully walk from one rock to the other while thinking of their hoped-for love with eyes closed, the desired romance will ensue. So goes the legend, and the daily practice, at Jinshu-jinja.

Tourists. Just through the Niomon, entering Kiyomizu-dera proper. 2011.

Walking on Sannenzaka towards Kiyomizudera (up and to the left). 2006.

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Three “Otowa no Taki” pics. . . over 20 years.

Here’s some of what Judith Clancy, in her wonderful guidebook (which I highly recommend), Exploring Kyoto: On Foot in the Ancient Capital, says about the Otowa no Taki:

Just beyond the three restaurants is Otowa no Taki, the ‘Sound of Feathers Waterfall,’ from which water is channeled into three spouts that pour down from above. Long-handled dippers are available for visitors to sample the clear, delicious water that inspired Echin to build his hermitage here, and which is the course of the temple’s popular name, which means ‘Temple of Pure Water.’”

1990

August 1990.

2001

Late September 2001.

2010

Late May 2010.

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A 鳥’s-Eye View: My Google Map of Kiyomizu-dera

“Grab” and move the image about, click on the little blue icons for information.

View Larger Map

. . .

Getting to Kiyomizu-dera

To quote extensively from this very good Kiyomizu-dera site:

[F]irst make your way up Ninen-zaka & Sannen-zaka walk, past the Omiyage shops until you reach the main gate of Kiyomizudera. . . Walking from there into the temple you will walk under the Nio-mon or Gate of the Deva Kings. The Deva Kings, along with Korean lion-dogs (koma-inu) protect the temple from any evil that may enter. The right Deva King has his mouth open, pronouncing “A”, the first sound of Sanskrit while the other has his mouth closed, pronouncing “UN”, the last sound. Thus, it is thought that the Deva Kings represent the complete teachings of Buddha.

Continuing past the Nio-mon, you go up a second flight of steps to the Sai-mon (West Gate). Two more Deva Kings stand guard at this eight pillared gate built in the early 17th century. To the gate’s left one can see the Shoro (Bell Tower) built in 1596, though the temple’s bell was cast in 1478. Above the flying brace of the tower one can see the imperial Chrysantheum crest. . .

Afternoon sun on Jizo Bhodisattvas at Kiyomizu-dera. 2008.

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*I write “Kiyomizu-dera” with the hyphen between the “Kiyomizu” and the “dera” to underscore the fact that the name of the temple is “Pure Water” (Kiyomizu 清水 ) “Temple” (dera 寺 ). Most often in English it’s written as one long word: “Kiyomizudera.” The written Japanese is actually simpler, just three kanji, or Chinese-type characters, as shown in the title of this piece: 清水寺． So in Japanese it is one word, no hyphen. But, again, I want English-only readers to better understand how the word is divided up.

Kiyomizu-dera ticket stub. From 2010.

2012: 05/26
CATEGORY: Uncategorized
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Kawara & Yane ・瓦と屋根 – (Tiles & Roofs).

I dig traditional Japanese roofs. Most, not all, are tiled. The tiles are called “kawara.” Roofs are called “yane.” Below are several links to sights that will tell you all about the various kinds of karawa and yane. I just wanted to share some photos of kawara and yane I’ve taken over the years.